Trim white bulbs off of ramps and set aside for use in another dish (stir fries, tarka on dal, etc.).

In a medium bowl, whisk gram flour, spices, and salt. Slowly add ice water, starting with a 1/4 cup. Whisk till smooth and thick; it should resemble double cream. If it’s too thick, add water, tablespoon by tablespoon till you get the right consistency.

Meanwhile, heat 3 inches of oil in a medium heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat (a candy thermometer will register 350F). Test the oil: a tiny drop of batter should sizzle and float to the top.

To dredge the ramps in the batter, transfer batter (in increments) to a large platter with a rim. Immerse your ramp leaf in the batter. Working in batches, add battered ramp to oil, and fry 15-20 seconds. These burn easily, so be careful!

Drizzle chili oil on yogurt (season w salt) and dunk those pakoras into this cooling dip!